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Scarce Antique Catalan 18th Century Gold Foiled Rose Cut Perpignan Garnet Ring

About the Item

This antique conversion piece started life as a regional ‘Croix Badine’ (Badine cross) dating to the late 18th century, the most emblematic jewel of the Catalan part of the Languedoc-Roussillon region. The badine cross is a regional cross mounted with rose cut and foiled Perpignan garnets. The word badine is an old French word which means “to move gently” and refers to the way the cross is articulated allowing the lower part to move freely. Le Grenat de Perpignan (Perpignan garnet) used in these crosses has been mined in the northern Catalan mountains since the 17th century. The use of these garnets in jewellery is more than just decorative, the stones represent a strong symbol of regional identity and were also historically believed to cure blood disorders and excessive anger! The garnets are multifaceted and convex with a special foiling technique to accentuate their brilliance. This particular garnet was well-selected to be used as a standalone piece for this ring as it displays a rich cranberry-scarlet lustre that reveals a glowing fire when touched by sunlight. Beautifully steeped in tradition, these exceptional gemstones epitomised the French region of Languedoc-Roussillon as well as Northern Catalonia in the 18th century. Roussillon, historically the northernmost part of the Catalan counties attached to Spain, was annexed to the kingdom of France under Louis XIV in the 17th century. However even today, people in the region of Roussillon speak Catalan as well as French. Perpignan garnets are no longer mined, meaning that only antique pieces remain… so if you are looking for a historically significant statement piece to add to your collection, this ring is perfect!  The conversion from Badine cross to ring likely took place towards the end of the 19th century due to changing tastes in fashion. The ring band carries a French control mark for a minimum of 750 / 18K gold, both the ring band and head test as 21K gold. As the January birthstone is set above red-tinted foil, the ring should not be immersed in water, as the foil will be discoloured.  UK size N 1/2, US size 7, 2.67g, bezel measures 13mm x 10mm
  • Ring Size:
    7 US, Resizable
  • Metal:
  • Stone:
  • Stone Cut:
  • Weight:
    2.67 g
  • Style:
  • Place of Origin:
  • Period:
  • Date of Manufacture:
    1780
  • Condition:
    Additions or alterations made to the original: Antique conversion from pendant to ring.
  • Seller Location:
    London, GB
  • Reference Number:
    1stDibs: LU2845218405862

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