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Diamond "Dragonfly" Pendant with 0.35 Carats Mixed Old Cut Diamonds in Platinum
About the Item
This pendant was originally the top of an elaborate locket brooch -- a typical piece of sentimental Late Victorian or Early Edwardian "chatelaine" jewelry, where some functionality was implied but the function is subordinate to the goal of being sparkly and fetching. It was impossibly heavy and poorly balanced but Eytan liked the top portion -- the flourish of ribbons you see here. He therefore removed the bottom locket and pin hardware, then cleaned up or closed all of the joins.
The resulting pendant is open to interpretation. While it's definitely intended to be a bow, we think it looks like a dragonfly, or it could also serve as a beautiful cross. It's meticulously crafted from every angle -- even the back and sides are embellished with raised scrollwork.
The bottom part of the pendant is hinged to the center, giving the pendant a small amount of movement.
The "wings" are openwork, with impossibly fine milgrain work. The center pieces have milgrained edges and are pavé-set with diamonds
The diamonds are all small (ranging from 0.008 to 0.06) and an interesting mix of cuts. The largest stones are Old European cuts, but most are single cuts, and the very smallest stones are very rough Just-Making-It-Up-As-We-Go-Along cuts. A few of the stones are full cuts, and are clearly later replacements.
For the bale, Eytan used the diamonds and bezels from an old ring -- a marquise and a single cut round -- nestling them in the crest of the top "bow" and tucking a sturdy wire keeper loop behind.
Altogether, the diamond mish-mash of 21 stones ranges a bit in terms of color and clarity. -- Eytan rates them from H to J color VS1 to SI2 clarity. We can give you a detail breakdown if you're interested.
The chain is a platinum, mirror-finish snake chain, 16" long and 1mm thick.* If you would like the pendant without the chain, or if you would like a different type of chain, please let us know. We think it looks best on tight links that convey a solid line, but there are many link designs that check that box.
WEIGHTS & MEASUREMENTS:
Pendant length (including bale): 34mm (just over 1-1/4")
Pendant width (wingspan): 24mm (just under 1")
Pendant weight: 5.8 grams
Pendant weight: 5.8 grams
Diamond weight (est.): 0.35 carats
Chain length: 16"
Chain thickness: 1mm
Chain weight: 4.8 grams
Total weight (pendant + chain): 10.6 grams
No part of this pendant or its original pin hardware or locket piece was marked -- not even a purity stamp. We think this piece is probably American, custom-made, and dates from the late 19th century to the very early years of the 20th century. Eytan marked the back PT and PLAT for platinum.
*Because snake chains are impossible to fix once they're kinked, and because yours truly can be a bit of a gorilla when she's taking photos, we used an old 14K model chain for our photos. The chain included with this pendant is brand new and platinum. It's identical in appearance to the model chain (1mm, 16"), only pristine and its lobster clasp is round instead of rectangular.
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:0.35 ct
- Dimensions:Height: 1.34 in (34.04 mm)Width: 0.94 in (23.88 mm)Length: 16 in (406.4 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:Circa 1910
- Condition:Polished. Replacements made: This pendant was originally a brooch. The pin hardware and a large lower portion was removed. Additions or alterations made to the original: All openings and joins have been corrected and polished. A bail was added to the top. The chain is new.
- Seller Location:Sherman Oaks, CA
- Reference Number:Seller: FD03581stDibs: LU1673115725722
About the Seller
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