Harry Winston Jacques Timey Burmese Sapphire Diamond Necklace, 1980s

This understated yet grand Harry Winston Diamond 3-Row Riviere Necklace, made in the late XX century, is crafted in 18K yellow gold and features 282 round brilliant bezel-set diamonds with an estimated total weight of 68 carats of E-F color and VVS clarity. The Harry Winston name is synonymous with the most exceptional diamonds of unparalleled quality, presented in designs that best demonstrate their natural beauty. This riviere necklace impeccably demonstrates the meticulous gradation of one type of stone, but with a fabulous and masterful twist. Instead of a single strand of diamonds, with all stones of the same color and cut that graduate smoothly in size from top to bottom, this sleek ultra-modern version demonstrates graduation across three strands—and from the inside out. The innermost strand is dotted with 92 of the smallest diamonds—a consistent size all the way around—which progressively and nearly imperceptibly get larger to the middle strand of 92 diamonds and culminate with the largest 92 diamonds in the outermost. Each diamond is lined up perfectly, not staggered. The inside diameter of the necklace is 16 inches, and the outside is 18 inches, and with the graduation, lays perfectly flat. Imagine how the precision of this necklace must translate to wearing it. How it must fit your contours perfectly, responding subtly to your every move. With a minimalist piece such as this composed of just two elements—perfectly round brilliant-cut diamonds and perfectly round gold bezels—the smallest variation becomes the big story. When we view the necklace from the reverse side, we can confirm our suspicion of such masterful workmanship. The graduation in the gold bezel settings from the innermost curve outwards is clear. The clasp is nearly imperceptible with the river of jewels flowing over it, save for one bezel-set diamond in the middle strand at a higher elevation. In these settings, the back is open, allowing the stones to reflect the light in all their dazzling glory. Rivière is French for river—in this case, a river of gems, because the stones are thought to flow around the neck. A rivière is usually quite short, about 14 inches or 35 cm. These necklaces first became popular in the 1700s and have been redesigned and updated over the years. Historically, the gemstones were set in separate collets—also known as bezels like this example—and later in prong or claw mountings. Collets were likewise popularly employed in opulent diamond articulated bracelets...

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