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Edwardian 1905 Guilloche Pendant Brooch 18Kt Gold Platinum with 2.56 Ct Diamonds
About the Item
Fabulous Edwardian belle epoque guilloche pendant.
An incredible piece, created during the Edwardian belle epoque period, circa 1900's. This piece was most probably made in France and was extremely well crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with parts accented with platinum for the setting of the diamonds gemstones. Fitted at the reverse with a hinged pin bar with a mechanical look to wear as a brooch and on top with a hinged retractable round bale to wear into a chain.
The mounting has a scalloped border that is adorned in the center with a round panel carefully decorated in the neoclassical style, painted with metallic colored enamels on a glorious surface treated with criss-cross Guilloche incisions representing the bust of Venus, the mythological goddess of love. She is facing to the right, adorned with a pearl necklace and gold drops earrings, with her hair arranged in two braids which is adorned with pink bows and a jeweled comb, she wears a red robe with a white blouse.
Diamonds: Mounted around in flat prongs settings with 32 exceptional calibrated round European cut diamonds with a combined weight of 2.56 carats, E /F color, VS-1 clarity
Weight: 13.2 Grams, (8.46 Dwt).
Measurements: 35 mm by 37 mm (1.38 x 1.46 Inches).
Hallmarks: Tested for 18kt gold and .900 platinum.
Edwardian era, like the Georgian and Victorian eras before it, derives its name from the reign of the English King, Edward VII (1901-1910). Edwardian jewelry is known for representing femininity while incorporating a lot of the color white. Think diamonds, pearls and white metals like platinum and white gold. Diamonds often had an Old Mine or European cut and sapphires were a popular choice for a pop of color. They tended to be made from platinum and diamonds – the more, the merrier – and used fashionable, intricate techniques such as filigree and millegrain. Edwardian rings are works of art and best worn alone or alongside a simple wedding band. Millegraining, a new decorative technique made possible by the use of platinum, is featured often on Edwardian jewelry. Its border of delicate balls and ridges surrounding a gemstone or on the knife sharp edges of a design served to give jewelry a softer, lighter look.
Note: Guilloché is used in fine jewelry to enhance the appearance of brooches, rings and pendants. Guilloché enamel refers to metal pieces that have been given the Guilloché treatment and then covered with a translucent layer of enamel, giving the geometric patterns underneath the enamel a colorful hue.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones, are secured in the settings. This pendant has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
This is an amazing and exceptional rare piece for the discriminating collector!
INVENTORY REF: P0000SONM/.3173
- Creator:Edwardian Belle Epoque
- Metal:
- Stone:
- Stone Cut:
- Weight:13.2 g
- Dimensions:Width: 1.36 in (34.55 mm)Length: 1.46 in (37.09 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1905
- Condition:Wear consistent with age and use. The overall condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones, are secured in the settings. This pendant has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
- Seller Location:Miami, FL
- Reference Number:Seller: P0000SONM/.31731stDibs: LU2690216240422
About the Seller
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Cartier
The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Lang's with thanks).
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