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Jean Després French Modernist Tri-color Gold Bracelet
About the Item
Composed of tri-color 18K gold, this modernist bracelet by French jewelry artist Després dates from 1935-1940. It is designed as a series of yellow gold arched, waisted plaques with subtle hammered texturing, centering ridged prism and graduating step motifs in white and rose gold, joined by arched rose gold links. This unusual tri-color gold bracelet represents Després' late work in the Art Moderne style, a rhythm of rounded, parabolic and angular geometric forms expressed in soft, gently textured gold.
Product Details:
Item #: BA-21135
Artist: Després
Country: France
Circa: 1935-40
Dimensions: 7.25" length x 0.75" width
Materials: Tri-color 18K Gold
Signed: J. Després, maker's mark, French assay marks
Literature: For a design drawing of a brooch, c. 1935-1940, with the waisted shape of these bracelet links, see Jean Després, 1889-1980, by Philippe Guegan.
Macklowe Gallery Curator's Notes:
A skilled draftsman, Després would design and then execute his jewelry and objets alone at the bench, creating them entirely by hand in his studio, working from his original sketches. He enjoyed the feeling and sound of metal giving way to his will, but there is a sense of celebration of the nature of metal in his work - in fact, Despres' stated purpose was to maintain "all its vitality and suppleness in tact".
- Creator:
- Metal:
- Dimensions:Width: 0.75 in (19.05 mm)Length: 7.25 in (184.15 mm)
- Style:
- Place of Origin:
- Period:
- Date of Manufacture:1935-40
- Condition:
- Seller Location:New York, NY
- Reference Number:Seller: BA-211351stDibs: LU8920658582
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Composed of silver, lacquer and reverse painted and engraved crystal, this exceptional ring was a collaboration of two French modernist artists, Després and Cornault. The ring centers a glass crystal prism above a polychrome abstract-design painting in miniature by Cornault, mounted by Després within a silver and black lacquer surround, flanked by stepped and incised chevron form shoulders with subtle dark patination. Uniting an intriguing abstract painting with the geometry of interlocking planes and layered strata, this rare ring is powerful work of painterly and sculptural modernism.
Product Details:
Item #: R-21132
Artist: J Després and E Cornault
Country: France
Circa: 1930
Size: 6.75 (this ring can be sized; please contact the gallery for further information)
Materials: Glace peinte/Reverse-painted crystal; Black lacquer; Silver
Signed: "J. Desprès", "JD" maker's mark, French guarantee stamp for silver.
Provenance: Given by the artist to his niece, and by descent in her family.
Exhibition History: "Étienne Cournault (1891-1948)" at Musées de la Cour d’Or à Metz, 25 June to 24 October 1994. This ring was presented as number 94 in the exhibition catalogue.
Literature: This ring appears in "Jean Després; Jeweller, Maker and Designer of the Machine Age", Thames & Hudson, 2009, by Melissa Gabardi, on p. 197.
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This important ring is one of a small group of “Bijoux-Glaces” or “Mirror Jewels”. These jewels represent the collaboration between two French Modernist artists, Étienne Cournault (1891-1948) and Jean Després (1889-1980). Cournault was from Lorraine, and had been educated at L’Ecole de Nancy in graphic and applied arts. He was active in Paris as a painter, draughtsman, and print maker in the 1920s. Moreover, he was the premier practitioner of the rarified technique of reverse painting on crystal, which he elevated from a traditional decorative art by creating intriguing miniature paintings of Surrealist and Cubist inspiration. Cournault met Després, an accomplished silversmith who moved in the circle of Modligiani, de Chirico, Braque and Signac, when Jacques Doucet commissioned the artists to complete an ornate metal table...
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