Leitão & Irmão 13 Carat Diamond Set of Earrings, Brooch and Bracelet, circa 1888

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About the Item

Some jewels only reluctantly tell their stories – others, such as this splendid Belle Époque parure comprising earrings as well as a brooch and a bangle, are more talkative. The set was part of the estate of a soprano singer who sang at the renowned Teatro Nacional de São Carlos in Lisbon, founded 1793, whose stages have been graced by legends of the opera such as Maria Callas. That this particular opera singer had a flair for luxury and quality is at once apparent even in the box's imprinted logo of Portuguese jewellers to the court, Leitão & Irmão. The set itself comprises 132 diamonds in old mine and rose cuts, weighing around 13.41 ct altogether. Typical of the time, the pieces have been made in a silver-on-gold technique, using a slightly rose-tinted gold. The silver has darkened and acquired a beautiful patina over time, letting the diamonds appear ever brighter. Leitão & Irmão had been given the imperial warrant in 1873 by Emperor Pedro II. of Brazil. In December of 1887, they were given the royal warrant as well, when King Luís I. appointed them jewellery to the Portuguese court, prompting the house to move their headquarters from Porto to Lisbon. Accordingly, the Brazilian imperial crown as well as the Portuguese royal crown can be found impressed logo, along with the location Lisbon – Porto. The history of Leitão & Irmão as well as the hallmarks help us to more accurately date the set. The earrings have been struck with Porto hallmarks, the bangle (and likely the brooch) with those of Lisbon, meaning that Leitão & Irmão began to work on the earrings in Porto in the year 1887 at the latest, while they completed bangle and brooch in Lisbon, or at least had the previously unmarked pieces assayed there. Additionally, the present hallmarks were only used from 1887 onwards, however Pedro II. was overthrown in November 1889. Thus, the set and its original fitted box can without a doubt be dated between 1887 and 1889. The dormeuse style of the earrings, the woven designs of the bangle and brooch were then at the height of fashion. In its gold-embossed leather box, lined with silk satin and velvet in the deep red colour of opera curtains, the set has survived the times in excellent condition. MATERIALS 132 diamonds, old mine cut, approx. 12.98 ct altogether (the largest thereof approx. 1.45 ct), mostly Top Wesselton/G – Crystal/J, two diamonds Top Cape/K, vvsi–p1 41 diamonds, rose cut, approx. 0.43 ct altogether, good to medium quality Rose gold 800/000 resp. 19.2k gold Silver DIMENSIONS Earrings approx. 1.6 x 1.0 cm / 0.63 x 0.39 in Inner diameter of bangle 4.9 x 5.9 cm / 1.93 x 2.32 in resp. 16.8 cm / 6.61 in circumference Diameter of brooch 3.7 cm / 1.46 in HALLMARKS The earrings with tiger mark for 800/000 gold (Porto 1887-1937) The bangle with mosquito mark for at least 750/000 gold (Lisbon 1887-1937) The brooch with slightly illegible tiger or jackal mark for 800/000 gold (Lisbon or Porto 1887-1937) and sphinx mark of Leitão & Irmão (in use since 1887) CERTIFICATES Delivery with our house certificate issued by an art historian as well as with detailed independent certificate of the DEGEB (Deutsche Gesellschaft für Edelsteinbewertung/German Association for Gemstone Evaluation) in Idar-Oberstein dated 26th of March, 2020. Estimated replacement value: 28.780,- Euro.

Creator:
Leitão & Irmão
Metal:
18k Gold,Rose Gold,Yellow Gold,Silver
Stone:
Diamond
Stone Cut:
Old Mine Cut
Weight:
37.4 g
Style:
Belle Époque
Place of Origin:
Portugal
Period:
1880-1889
Date of Manufacture:
circa 1888
Condition:
Seller Location:
Berlin, DE
Reference Number:
Seller: 20-01431stDibs: LU156429436232

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