Diamonds by the Yard Sprinkle Necklace

As Italian jewelry designer Elsa Peretti (1940–2021) told the New York Times in 1978, “All my work comes out of my life; I’m gifted and see lines and shapes where no one else does.” For her Open Heart necklace, that shape was in the void of a semi-abstract sculpture by English artist Henry Moore, an open space that, to her, resembled a heart. The undulating lines of Peretti’s heart pendant are open so that a chain can be pulled right through and it can move freely with the wearer, one of the ...

Heart-shaped jewelry is hardly revolutionary, yet in the hands of Elsa Peretti (1940–2021) even the most familiar symbols find new relevance. Born in Florence, Italy, Peretti was a fashion model and Studio 54 fixture before she transitioned into jewelry design. Working instinctively, Peretti’s designs — such as her Open Heart ring — stemmed from a desire to translate evocative forms and archetypal imagery into wearable, intimate jewelry that transcends fashion trends. “All my work comes out o...