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The Legacy of Diamond in Jewelry Design
Antique diamond rings, diamond tiaras and dazzling vintage diamond earrings are on the wish lists of every lover of fine jewelry. And diamonds and diamond jewelry are primarily associated with storybook engagements and red-carpet grand entrances — indeed, this ultra-cherished gemstone has a dramatic history on its hands.
From “A Diamond Is Forever” to “Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend,” pop culture has ingrained in our minds that diamonds are the most desired, the most lasting and the most valuable gemstone. But what makes the diamond so special? Each stone — whether it’s rubies, sapphires or another stone — is unique and important in its own right. April babies might claim diamonds for themselves, but just about everyone wants this kind of sparkle in their lives!
There are several factors that set diamonds apart from other stones, and these points are important to our gem education.
Diamonds are minerals. They are made up of almost entirely of carbon (carbon comprises 99.95 percent; the remainder consists of various trace elements). Diamonds are the hardest gemstones, ranking number 10 on the Mohs Hardness Scale. Even its name, diamond, is rooted in the Greek adamas, or unconquerable. The only object that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Diamonds are formed deep within the earth at very high temperatures (1,652–2,372 degrees Fahrenheit at depths between 90 and 120 miles beneath the earth’s surface) and are carried up by volcanic activity. Diamonds are quite rare, according to the Gemological Institute of America, and only 30 percent of all the diamonds mined in the world are gem quality.
In the 1950s, the Gemological Institute of America developed the 4Cs grading system to classify diamonds: clarity, color, cut and carat weight. Not all diamonds are created equal (there are diamonds, and then there are diamonds). The value of the diamond depends on the clarity (flawless diamonds are very rare but a diamond's value decreases if there are many blemishes or inclusions), color (the less color the higher the grade), cut (how the diamond’s facets catch the light, certain cuts of diamonds show off the stone better than others) and carat weight (the bigger, the better).
When you start shopping for a diamond engagement ring, always prioritize the cut, which plays the largest role in the diamond's beauty (taking the time to clean your diamond ring at least every six months or so plays a role in maintaining said beauty). And on 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
Shop antique and vintage diamond rings, diamond necklaces and other extraordinary diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Rings for You
Antique and vintage rings have long held a special place in the hearts of fine jewelry lovers all over the world.
No matter their origin or specific characteristics, rings are timeless, versatile accessories. They’ve carried deep meaning since at least the Middle Ages, when diamond rings symbolized strength and other kinds of rings were worn to signify romantic feelings or to denote an affiliation with a religious order. Rings have also forever been emblematic of eternity.
Over time, rings have frequently taken the form of serpents, which have long been associated with eternal life, health and renewal. Italian luxury jewelry house Bulgari has become famous for its widely loved Serpenti motif, for example, and its Serpenti ring, like the other accessories in the collection, began as an homage to jewelry of the Roman and Hellenistic eras. The serpent is now a popular motif in fine jewelry. Jewelry devotees have long pined for rings adorned with reptiles, thanks to antique Victorian rings — well, specifically, Queen Victoria’s illustrious engagement ring, which took the form of a gold snake set with rubies, diamonds and an emerald (her birthstone). Designs for Victorian-era engagement rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal.
Engagement rings, which are reliably intimidating to shop for, are still widely recognized as symbols of love and commitment. On 1stDibs, a range of buying guides can be found for those in the market for antique engagement rings, vintage engagement rings or Art Deco engagement rings.
The most collectible antique engagement rings and vintage engagement rings are those from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Named for the monarchies of the four King Georges, who in succession ruled England starting in 1714 (plus King William’s reign), antique Georgian rings, be they engagement rings or otherwise, are also coveted by collectors. Pearls, along with colored gemstones like garnets, rubies and sapphires, were widely used in Georgian jewelry. The late-1700s paste jewelry was a predecessor to what we now call fashion or costume jewelry.
The Art Nouveau movement (1880–1910) brought with it rings inspired by the natural world. Antique Art Nouveau rings might feature depictions of winged insects and fauna as well as women, who were simultaneously eroticized and romanticized, frequently with long flowing hair. Art Deco jewelry, on the other hand, which originated during the 1920s and ’30s, is by and large “white jewelry.” White metals, primarily platinum, were favored over yellow gold in the design of antique Art Deco rings and other accessories as well as geometric motifs, with women drawn to the era’s dazzling cocktail rings in particular.
Whether you’re hunting down a chunky classic for a Prohibition-themed cocktail party or seeking a clean contemporary design to complement your casual ensemble, find an exquisite collection of antique, new and vintage rings on 1stDibs.
- What is a tycoon cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertOctober 12, 2021In simple terms, a tycoon cut is a gemstone cut that has nine crown facets and 20 step-cut pavilion facets. Find a collection of vintage tycoon cut diamond jewelry on 1stDibs today.
- Are tycoon diamonds real?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, Tycoon diamonds are indeed real, although they can only be cut by a few of the world's most skilled craftsmen. Each Tycoon diamond is engraved with a serial number for authenticity. You’ll find a variety of expertly vetted Tycoon diamonds from some of the world’s top sellers on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 8, 2023Yes, the princess cut is a good cut for a diamond. For one thing, princess-cut diamonds are similar to the shape of a raw diamond. As a result, jewelers waste less of the stone, often leading to cost-effective pricing for princess-cut diamond jewelry. The princess cut is also visually appealing due to its symmetrical shape. As a brilliant cut, it shows off the sparkle of a diamond. On 1stDibs, shop a collection of princess-cut diamond jewelry.
- What are diamond cuts on chains?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 6, 2023Diamond cuts on chains are small grooves or notches on the surface of the metal. The addition of this detailing gives metal chains a luminous, almost sparkling effect. The term is not to be confused with diamond cut, which refers to the design guide that a jeweler uses for shaping gemstones. A diamond's cut relates to how well the stone's facets interact with light. Explore a variety of chain necklaces on 1stDibs.
- What are double-cut diamonds?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertJanuary 23, 2024Double-cut diamonds are diamonds that have facets arranged in a certain way. Specifically, the double-cut has a traditional brilliant cut on one side and a rougher rose cut on the other. As a result, the gemstone can be set in two different ways. Explore a large collection of diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Which Diamond Cut is best?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021The most popular diamond cut is round brilliant with fifty seven perfectly aligned facets. Other popular cuts include cushion cut diamond, princess cut diamond and emerald cut diamond.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 8, 2023Generally, the most expensive cut of diamond is the brilliant round cut. This cut creates the most waste during the shaping process, and the excess material gets factored into the price. Keep in mind that other factors like clarity, color and carat weight also impact the price. On 1stDibs, find a wide range of diamond jewelry.
- What is a star-cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertJanuary 23, 2024A star-cut diamond is a diamond with a certain shape and facet arrangement. Specifically, the style features 86 facets and is a brilliant cut that shows off the sparkle of a diamond. In terms of shape, the cut produces a gemstone that resembles a five-pointed star. On 1stDibs, explore a wide variety of diamond jewelry.
- What is a cushion cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022A cushion cut diamond is one that has a square shape with rounded corners. It differs from the similarly shaped emerald cut in that it has a brilliant cut that maximizes sparkle rather than a stepped cut that shows off color and clarity. You'll find a variety of cushion cut diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is a Victorian-cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 2, 2021A Victorian-cut diamond features a top crown that is distinctly multifaceted — it has a small table and step-cut bottom pavilion that comprises 73 facets. It appears quite large when set. Relatedly, rose-cut diamonds are uncommon in modern jewelry and are often associated with antique styles like Victorian or Georgian.
- What does diamond cuts mean?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertJanuary 23, 2024The term diamond cuts means how a jeweler prepares a raw diamond for a piece of jewelry. Using tools, jewelers create flat surfaces called facets, and the arrangement and number of these facets affect the shape and appearance of the finished gem. Examples of diamond cuts include the brilliant round, the emerald, the oval and the cushion. Explore a wide range of diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is a Peruzzi cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023A Peruzzi-cut diamond is a diamond cut in a particular shape. It features rounded edges and a third row of rhomboidal and triangular crown facets compared to the brilliant round cut. To create the Peruzzi cut, a maker produces 58 brilliant facets, also known as the triple cut. Venetian jeweler Vincenzo Peruzzi developed the cut during the 17th century. On 1stDibs, find a large collection of diamond jewelry.
- What is a Poor cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertJanuary 23, 2024A Poor cut diamond is a diamond with a specific cut rating from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Cut refers to the arrangement of facets on a diamond, and GIA rates cuts on a scale from Excellent to Poor. The Poor cut will have little to no sparkle or brilliance, usually due to imperfections in the placement of its facets. Shop a diverse assortment of diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- What is a mine cut diamond?2 Answers1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A mine cut diamond is an antique diamond cut known for its bulky and often uneven shape, cutlet, and tiny table. This type of diamond cut was quite popular in the mid-1800s to the early-1900sJacob's Diamond & Estate JewelryMarch 1, 2021Mine cut diamonds are typically called OLD MINE CUTS, This type of cutting started in the early 1700s. The shapes are typically cushion shape and the cutting was done all by hand. Though they do not have the sparkle of modern cut diamonds, when they sparkle in sunlight or candle light, they have this beautiful alluring shimmer.
- What is a rose cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021A rose cut diamond boasts a cabbed flat base and a faceted top. It is called a rose cut diamond because it resembles the shape of a rose.
- What is a shield cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Shield cut diamonds have a triangular shape with three sides bowed so the diamond sort of resembles a shield. They’re often used in rings as side accents to the center stone, so they rest a large side against the stone and then taper down the band. Shop a collection of authentic shield cut diamonds from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- What is a European cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021European cut diamonds were most popular from the late 19th century to the mid-20th century. They're quite brilliant in terms of shine quality and feature a large culet,small table and round shape.
- What is a French cut diamond?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertOctober 12, 2021A French cut diamond is a diamond that is cut in a square or rectangular shape, and features a high crown, along with triangle-shaped facets in a crisscross pattern. A French cut diamond is made by grinding the top of the crystal gemstone. Find a collection of antique, vintage and new French cut diamond jewelry on 1stDibs today.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023The cut that is best for a diamond depends on your individual preferences. If you love the sparkle of diamonds, a brilliant cut like the brilliant round, princess, marquise, oval or pear may be ideal. If you want to show off the clarity and color of a diamond, you may prefer stepped cuts like the emerald, Asscher, baguette or carré. In terms of Gemological Institute of America (GIA) ratings, the best diamond cuts are those that carry an excellent grade. Find a large collection of diamond jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021There are a handful of different diamond cuts, each differing in cost, carat, and size. The most popular diamond cuts include round brilliant-cut, princess-cut, marquise-cut, cushion-cut, emerald-cut, radiant-cut, pear-shaped, oval, and asscher-cut.
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