Mourning Hair Brooch
Antique 1850s Victorian Brooches
14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Gold
Antique Late 19th Century American Victorian Brooches
Onyx, Cultured Pearl, Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
Antique 1850s Australian Victorian Brooches
Gold Plate, Enamel
Antique 18th Century Unknown Georgian Brooches
14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Early 19th Century British Georgian Brooches
Pearl, Gold, Enamel
Antique 1850s European Victorian Brooches
Pearl, Gilt Metal
Antique 1820s British Georgian Brooches
14k Gold
Antique 1850s Australian Victorian Brooches
Pearl, Gold, Enamel
Antique Mid-19th Century Victorian Brooches
Pearl, 14k Gold
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Onyx, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Gold-filled
Antique 1890s Victorian Brooches
Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique 19th Century Victorian Pendant Necklaces
Pearl, 10k Gold
Antique Mid-19th Century Scottish Victorian Brooches
Quartz, 9k Gold, Rose Gold
Antique 19th Century British Victorian Brooches
Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Antique Late 19th Century British Late Victorian Brooches
Agate, 10k Gold
Antique Late 19th Century British Brooches
Pearl, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
20th Century Brooches
Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Unknown High Victorian Brooches
Gold-filled
Antique Early 19th Century British Georgian Brooches
Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Brooches
14k Gold
Antique 1820s British Georgian Brooches
10k Gold
Antique 1840s Unknown Early Victorian Brooches
14k Gold
Antique 19th Century Victorian Brooches
15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Antique Mid-19th Century English Early Victorian Historical Memorabilia
Gold
Antique Late 19th Century Victorian Brooches
Antique 19th Century Unknown Victorian Brooches
Onyx, Pearl, Gold, 9k Gold
Antique Early 19th Century British Georgian Brooches
9k Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver, Gold
Mourning Hair Brooch For Sale on 1stDibs
How Much is a Mourning Hair Brooch?
Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertOctober 12, 2021As the name suggests, mourning jewelry represents connection to a deceased individual or loved one. In the Victorian era, people were expected to wear mourning clothing and accessories following the death of a loved one. As brooches were popular during the Victorian period, they became a favorite for those who wanted to memorialize the dead. Find a collection of vintage and antique brooches on 1stDibs today.
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