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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- Should men wear rings?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021Yes, men should wear rings. The choice to accessorize with rings is largely a matter of preference. Many men wear a single bold statement ring. But the choice of accessories is up to the style of the wearer. Find an extensive variety of rings for sale on 1stDibs.
- Does Cartier have rings for men?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertMarch 22, 2022Yes, Cartier sells rings for men. The luxury jewelry house produces numerous band rings, including the 1895 wedding band, the C DE, the Love and the D'Amour wedding band. In addition, the brand offers a ring version of its Trinity bracelet. The piece combines yellow, white and rose gold bands to symbolize love, friendship and fidelity. Find a selection of Cartier rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertDecember 4, 2023Yes, some men's wedding rings have diamonds. Men are free to wear any type of ring as a wedding ring, and you'll find many options with one or more diamonds set into their bands. Wedding rings for men may also feature colored gemstones, like sapphires or rubies, in addition to or in place of diamonds, or they may be formed entirely out of metal. On 1stDibs, shop a wide variety of men's wedding rings.
- Do men wear engagement rings?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 16, 2024Yes, some men do wear engagement rings. Although traditionally it is women who wear engagement jewelry, more men have begun to do so in recent years. In some cases, both members of a couple opt to sport engagement rings, or a man may wear one if his partner is the one to propose to him. Find a wide range of engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 1, 2023Yes, some men wear silver wedding rings. There are no rules regarding what type of metal wedding rings should be made from, so couples are free to choose materials that appeal to them. Some people find silver appealing due to its light, cool color and durability. Explore a variety of antique and vintage silver wedding rings on 1stDibs.
- Do men wear gold wedding rings?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertDecember 4, 2023Yes, some men wear gold wedding rings. Gold has been used for making wedding rings for centuries, and men can find many different kinds of wedding bands formed out of the precious metal. Other metal options for men's wedding rings include platinum, sterling silver, titanium, tungsten and cobalt. On 1stDibs, shop a large selection of men's wedding rings.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023Some military men wear black wedding rings due to the nature of their jobs. These black rings are usually made out of silicone, rubber or carbon fiber. These materials are incredibly durable and unlikely to become scratched or damaged while the wearer is carrying out his duties. Although black is the most common color, these rings are available in other colors like gray and blue. On 1stDibs, explore a large collection of wedding rings.
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