Geneva Watch

Antique, new and vintage Geneva watches are marked by a definitive certification — the Poinçon de Genève, referred to in English as the Hallmark of Geneva or the Geneva Seal, is reserved for mechanical watches made within the city or its canton (a region similar to a U.S. state) that adhere to superb traditional standards of craftsmanship.

Geneva, or Genève, is the name of the Swiss city known for producing some of the most impressive timepieces in the world. But the presence of the city’s name on the face of your vintage watch is far from a guarantee that your timepiece is reliable, high quality or even a product of Switzerland. Today’s devoted watch collectors know that while the terms “Swiss” and “Swiss Made” have been registered as trademarks in the United States and Hong Kong by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, similar measures haven’t been taken to stop manufacturers worldwide from associating their goods with Geneva and its centuries-old reputation for fine watchmaking.

Surprisingly, the history of Geneva as a center of haute horlogerie hinges on the Protestant Reformation. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, many French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution crossed the Jura Mountains seeking refuge in Calvinist Switzerland. Among them were expert watchmakers, who brought both know-how and labor to Geneva’s burgeoning cabinets, or workshops.

In 1886, the Grand Council of the Republic and Canton of Geneva passed a law creating the seal, with the aim of protecting the reputation of Geneva watches from poorly made counterfeits sold abroad. Naturally, the seal guarantees that your Geneva watch was made in Geneva, though not necessarily its parts. Thanks to our global economy, it’s not unusual for companies to source parts from various countries. However, four major steps in the manufacturing process must take place in Geneva: assembly, casing up, adjustment and testing. The watch must also be submitted by a business registered in Geneva.

A limited number of the industry’s most revered houses, including Vacheron Constantin, Roger Dubuis, Chopard and Cartier, have facilities in Geneva and consistently submit watches for certification. However, not all Geneva-based companies choose to apply for the seal — while Patek Philippe stood alongside Vacheron Constantin as one of the first brands to embrace the Geneva Seal, in 2009 the company introduced its own certification — and even among brands like the ones above, not all references are submitted. Though 20 million Swiss watches are manufactured every year, just 24,000 carry the seal, according to the Roger Dubuis website.

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Antique, vintage and luxury wristwatches have captured the hearts and minds of all manner of watch collectors as well as the watchmakers themselves — it's time you found your own.

Certain vintage watches for men and iconic watch designs for women are sought after not only because of their graceful proportions or innovative materials but also because of the illustrious histories of the houses that created them, histories that they stylishly embody.

Bulgari’s legendary Serpenti watch was on everyone’s list after the collection’s bold bracelet, which technically debuted after the timepiece, graced the wrist of actress Elizabeth Taylor. If anything, elaborately crafted timepieces — the unmistakably boxy silhouette of Cartier Tank watches, the elegant and minimal Calatrava designed by legendary Swiss house Patek Philippe — are even more effective than the shape we associate with traditional wristwatches.

Form watches — the all-encompassing moniker bestowed upon non-round watches — are making headlines and completing contemporary fashionable ensembles the world over. At the same time, both casual fans and careful collectors are drawn to the unbeatable charm of vintage styles, such as the icons designed by Omega that even James Bond can’t resist.

In the early days of watchmaking, watches were fragile enough that they necessitated protection from the elements. Now, wristwatches made of gold and steel can withstand the harshest climates — even 100 meters underwater, in the case of Rolex’s Submariner. Designer Gérald Genta, whose range of clients included Rolex, created for Audemars Piguet the first luxury sports timepiece to be made from stainless steel. First introduced in 1972, the Royal Oak was a perfect choice for blending the form and function that are now synonymous with sports watches.

Are you shopping for a wristwatch? It’s good to keep your needs as well as your specific personal style in mind: A smaller, subtle timepiece is a good fit for small wrists. When will you be wearing your new accessory? There’s a versatile model out there for everyday wear, while a rugged, feature-heavy watch is a safe bet if you’re prone to embarking on all-weather activities in the great outdoors.

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