Antique Ruby Locket
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
Early 20th Century French Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, Enamel
1890s Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1880s European Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Rose Gold
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century French Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1830s Georgian Antique Ruby Locket
Emerald, Ruby, Gold
Early 1900s Russian Antique Ruby Locket
14k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Ruby Locket
14k Gold
19th Century French Belle Époque Antique Ruby Locket
Garnet, Ruby, Emerald, Silver, Sterling Silver, Enamel
1880s Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Gold, Enamel
1840s Early Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, Gold, Enamel, 14k Gold
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1910s Russian Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Garnet, Ruby, 14k Gold
Early 19th Century British Georgian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Diamond, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold, Rose Gold
1890s English High Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Emerald, White Diamond, Diamond, Silver, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold, Gold
Early 20th Century American Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Sapphire, Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver
Early 20th Century European Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire, Turquoise
Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 10k Gold
Late 19th Century Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
19th Century Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, Multi-gemstone, Gold, 18k Gold, Y...
1880s British Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Turquoise, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold
Early 1900s Antique Ruby Locket
1910s Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Enamel
1820s British Georgian Antique Ruby Locket
Amethyst, Ruby, Garnet, Emerald, Diamond, 18k Gold, Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
1840s Early Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold, Enamel
Late 19th Century English Antique Ruby Locket
Gold, 9k Gold
1850s English Artisan Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 14k Gold
1880s British Late Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, Yellow Gold, Silver
1860s British Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Blue Sapphire, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
1890s French Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Emerald, Rock Crystal, Ruby, 18k Gold
1880s English Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver
1860s British Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 15k Gold
Early 1900s French Edwardian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, 18k Gold
1890s French Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century French Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
19th Century Unknown Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold
Early 1800s British Regency Antique Ruby Locket
Amethyst, Diamond, Emerald, Garnet, Ruby, 15k Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, Turquoise, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century European Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, Turquoise, Gold
Late 19th Century French Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Sapphire, Ruby, 18k Gold
Early 19th Century British Art Nouveau Antique Ruby Locket
1860s French Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Natural Pearl, Rock Crystal, Ruby, 14k Gold, 18k Gold
1830s British Georgian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
1840s Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Garnet, 18k Gold
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 1900s Unknown Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century English Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 15k Gold
Early 20th Century American Retro Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, White Diamond, Ruby, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
1870s English Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Pearl, Ruby, 18k Gold
Early 1900s English Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Ruby, 15k Gold
Late 19th Century American Victorian Antique Ruby Locket
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold
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How Much is a Antique Ruby Locket?
Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.
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