Antique Garnet Necklace
1850s Georgian Antique Garnet Necklace
1640s American Artisan Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Hessonite, Gold Plate
19th Century Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet
19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 10k Gold, Gold-filled, Silver
1880s Austrian Belle Époque Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver
1820s English George III Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 10k Gold
1920s European Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 18k Gold, Silver
19th Century Antique Garnet Necklace
19th Century Czech Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold-filled, Silver
Mid-19th Century British Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver, Gilt Metal
1880s Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Czech Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Pearl, Gold-filled, Silver
Late 19th Century Dutch Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 14k Gold
Late 19th Century Dutch Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
18th Century Asian Antique Garnet Necklace
Crystal, Garnet, Rock Crystal, Silver
1890s Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Diamond, Garnet, Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Austrian Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver
1850s Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
1840s Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 14k Gold, 15k Gold
19th Century English Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 9k Gold
1910s American Edwardian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Diamond, Platinum
1890s English Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Diamond, Garnet, 15k Gold
Early 20th Century Edwardian Antique Garnet Necklace
Amethyst, Garnet
1820s Georgian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold
Early 1900s French Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 18k Gold
Early 19th Century Unknown Georgian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Pearl, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Pearl, Sterling Silver
19th Century British Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 15k Gold, 9k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold-filled, Silver, Sterling Silver
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, Yellow Gold
1840s Unknown Early Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 15k Gold
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
19th Century American Art Nouveau Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Diamond, 18k Gold, Silver
1840s Early Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Beryl, Garnet, Ruby, Gold
1790s European Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver
Late 18th Century European Georgian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold
Mid-19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Turquoise, 15k Gold
1910s Antique Garnet Necklace
Mid-19th Century English Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Mid-19th Century Holbeinesque Antique Garnet Necklace
Diamond, Garnet, Pearl, 14k Gold
1870s British Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 18k Gold
Late 19th Century Dutch Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 14k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century English Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 15k Gold, Enamel
1830s German Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver
1880s Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Early 20th Century Czech Art Deco Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold-filled
Late 19th Century Dutch Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Pearl, Gold, 10k Gold, 14k Gold
Early 20th Century Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Pearl, Gold, 9k Gold, Rose Gold
1890s Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Diamond, Garnet, Yellow Gold
19th Century Unknown Belle Époque Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gilt Metal
Early 20th Century European Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Moonstone, Natural Pearl, 15k Gold, Yellow Gold
Late 19th Century Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Natural Pearl, Ruby, 15k Gold
19th Century Czech Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold-filled, Silver
19th Century Unknown Victorian Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Gold, 10k Gold, Enamel
19th Century Czech Belle Époque Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver, Gilt Metal
1880s English Aesthetic Movement Antique Garnet Necklace
Garnet, Silver, Enamel
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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
The Legacy of Garnet in Jewelry Design
Vintage and antique garnet jewelry has been around for a long time.
Garnets have been used for adornment going all the way back to the Bronze Age. While we will never know if garnets can be used to prevent plagues or heal warriors, as has been suggested, we do know that both the Egyptians and the Romans felt that it was a worthy stone to set in gold for their nobility. In more “recent” times, garnets were ubiquitous in Victorian jewelry. The “G” in REGARD rings, the equivalent of the modern-day engagement ring, implied garnet.
Garnets were also highly valued in the region of Bohemia. The Smithsonian Museum of Natural History has in its collection an antique hairpin with Bohemian pyrope garnets from the Czech Republic. Bohemian pyrope got its name from Bohuslav Balbín, sometimes referred to as the “Czech Pliny,” in 1679. Abundant in the region, it was used often in jewelry during this time. In fact, it became so popular that in 1762, Empress Marie Terezie forbade its export. Stonecutting workshops opened in several regions across Bohemia, and pyrope became the country’s mineralogical symbol. While there was never a decline in its popularity, it was only in the mid-20th century that garnets enjoyed a revival.
Garnets can come in many shapes and sizes — one of the largest ever discovered is a 68.82-carat Tsavorite garnet. This stone is also in the collection of the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, Brazil’s mines are rich in garnets, including spessartine, which can also be found in the Myanmar area, recognized for a specific shade of reddish-orange. While red garnets are the most popular, garnets actually come in a medley of colors.
Find a collection of antique and vintage garnet rings, necklaces and other jewelry today on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Necklaces for You
We are fortunate to know much of the world’s long and dazzling history of necklaces, as this type of jewelry was so treasured that it was frequently buried with its owners. Today, Van Cleef necklaces, Tiffany necklaces and Cartier necklaces are some of the most popularly searched designer necklaces on 1stDibs.
Lapis lazuli beads adorned necklaces unearthed from the royal graves at the ancient Iraqi civilization of Sumer, while the excavation of King Tut’s burial chamber revealed a sense of style that led to a frenzy of Art Deco designs, with artisans of the 1920s seeking to emulate the elegant work crafted by Ancient Egypt’s goldsmiths and jewelry makers.
In ancient times, pendant necklaces worn by royalty and nobles conferred wealth and prestige. Today, wearing jewelry is about personal expression: Luxury diamond necklaces exude confidence and can symbolize the celebratory nature of a deep romantic relationship, while paper-clip chain-link necklaces designed by the likes of goldsmith Faye Kim are firmly planted in the past as well as the present. Kim works exclusively with eco-friendly gold, and these fashionable, fun accessories owe to the design of 19th-century watch fobs.
For some, necklaces are thought of as being a solely feminine piece, but this widely loved accessory has been gender-neutral for eons. In fact, just as women rarely took to wearing a single necklace during the Renaissance, men of the era layered chains and valuable pendants atop their bejeweled clothing. In modern times, the free-spirited hippie and counterculture movements of the 1960s saw costume-jewelry designers celebrating self-expression through colorful multistrand necklaces and no shortage of beads, which were worn by anyone and everyone.
Even after all of these years, the necklace remains an irrefutable staple of any complete outfit. Although new trends in jewelry are constantly emerging, the glamour and beauty of the past continue to inform modern styles and designs. In a way, the cyclical history of the necklace differs little from its familiar looped form: The celebrated French jewelry house Van Cleef & Arpels found much inspiration in King Tut, and, now, their Alhambra collection is a go-to for modern royals. Vintage David Webb necklaces — whose work landed him on the cover of Vogue in 1950, two years after opening his Manhattan shop — were likely inspired by the ornamental styles of ancient Greece, Mesopotamia and Egypt.
On 1stDibs, browse top designers like Dior, Chanel and Bulgari, or shop by your favorite style, from eye-catching choker necklaces to understated links to pearl necklaces and more.
- 1stDibs ExpertDecember 4, 2023To tell if a necklace is antique, first look for hallmarks that indicate the maker. If you locate them, you can consult trusted online resources to find out when the company or artisan was active. To qualify as an antique, a necklace must be at least 100 years old. The presence of materials that are no longer commonly used to produce jewelry, like bakelite, camphor glass, foil opals and paste, can be good indicators that a piece is an antique. Antique jewelry is also more likely to have European- and rose-cut gemstones than modern cuts like the brilliant round. Because it can be difficult to date jewelry on your own, you may wish to consult an expert, like a certified appraiser or experienced dealer, for assistance. On 1stDibs, shop a large collection of antique necklaces.
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