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Vintage 1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Watch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Finely crafted in 18k yellow gold, with white dial.  Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels Circa 1980's Size
Category

Vintage 1980s Wrist Watches

Materials

18k Gold

Vintage 1980's Van Cleef & Arpels Lapis and Diamond Dress Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A beautiful vintage Van Cleef and Arpels lapis and diamond bombe dress ring set in 18k yellow gold
Category

Vintage 1980s French Dome Rings

Materials

Diamond, Lapis Lazuli, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 1980s Van Cleef & Arpels 69.00 Carat Diamond Collar Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
total of approximately 69.00 carats. Signed by Van Cleef & Arpels 14 1/4 inches
Category

Vintage 1980s Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby Cabochon and Diamond Halo Ring, 18k
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby Cabochon and Diamond Halo Ring made in 18k Yellow Gold. Circa 1980s. The
Category

Vintage 1980s Cluster Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Vintage 1980s Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Textured Gold Double Link Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Houston, TX
Van Cleef & Arpels wide bracelet composed of 18K yellow gold with 2 rows of large ribbed textured
Category

Vintage 1970s French Link Bracelets

Materials

18k Gold, Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Coral Gold Suite
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A 1980's Van Cleef & Arpels brooch & earring suite, the brooch designed as a curving branch with
Category

Vintage 1980s French Brooches

Materials

Coral, White Diamond, 18k Gold

1980s VCA coral and diamond necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
This striking 1980s Van Cleef & Arpels coral and diamond necklace is beautifully made with a
Category

Vintage 1980s French Contemporary Beaded Necklaces

Materials

Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef and Arpels Yellow Gold Collar
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Vintage 1980s Van Cleef and Arpels yellow gold choker necklace. This variation is for a medium size
Category

Antique Early 19th Century French Contemporary Choker Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Rose Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 1980s Diamond Gold Bow Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 1980s Diamond Gold Bow Brooch An 18k yellow gold bow brooch, set with
Category

Vintage 1980s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Collection 1980s Diamond Flower Brooch
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Collection 1980s Diamond Flower Brooch A brilliantly fabricated flower
Category

Vintage 1980s American Brooches

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold & diamond bracelet circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Addlestone, GB
This rare example of French contemporary design. Van Cleef & Arpels yellow gold and diamond
Category

21st Century and Contemporary French Contemporary Link Bracelets

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980's 18K Yellow Gold Woven Design Diamond Collar Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels woven yellow gold collar necklace circa 1980. Cllar style necklace that is in
Category

20th Century French Modern Choker Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage 1980s Diamond Mother of Pearl Flower Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
″ in length by 1″ by width Signed “VAN CLEEF & ARPELS“; circa 1980s
Category

Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold

18k Yellow Gold Van Cleef & Arpels 1980s Whimsical Diamond Pin
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
This elegant brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels features a charming hat design, adorned with a delicate
Category

Vintage 1980s Brooches

Materials

Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef and Arpels Yellow Gold 18K Set Earrings Necklace 1980S
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Geneva, CH
Necklace. Circa 1980. Signed Van Cleef and Arpels, marked and numbered. French marks. Necklace
Category

Vintage 1980s French Link Necklaces

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Spectacular Camellia Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1980s, 18k, by Van Cleef & Arpels. These Van Cleef & Arpels Camellia earrings are exquisite
Category

Vintage 1980s Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Pearl Clip Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Dating from the 1980s, these Van Cleef & Arpels earrings are composed of Tahitian and South Sea
Category

20th Century French Drop Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Pearl, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond 'Question Mark' 18ct Gold Swirl Ring Circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A diamond and white gold dress ring by Van Cleef & Arpels c.1980s, the asymmetric ring in 18ct
Category

Late 20th Century French Dome Rings

Materials

White Diamond, 14k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Navette Shape Diamond Cocktail Ring in 18 Karat YG
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Bay Harbor Islands, FL
carats. Circa 1980's Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, NY Ring Size: 7 Metal Type: 18 Karat Yellow Gold Metal
Category

Late 20th Century American Modern Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Diamond 18ct Yellow Gold Bombe Shaped Ring Circa 1980
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A vintage diamond and yellow gold dress ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1980s. The ring is designed
Category

Late 20th Century American Dome Rings

Materials

White Diamond, 18k Gold

Vintage VCA 18k Yellow Gold Lion Earrings, Brilliant Cut Diamonds
Located in New York, NY
Gold Era: 1950s – 1980s Stone: Diamond Signed: Van Cleef & Arpels
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Retro Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 20 Motif Gold Vintage Alhambra Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Miami, FL
1980s. Creator: Van Cleef & Arpels Condition: Excellent Metal: 18K Yellow Gold Note: Includes Van
Category

21st Century and Contemporary Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels gold drop earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Monte Carlo, MC
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Pair of earrings in yellow gold with fans decor retaining rings in hammered gold
Category

Vintage 1980s French Drop Earrings

Materials

18k Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Gold Hoop Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Lovely hoop earrings created by Van Cleef & Arpels in France in the 1980's. Elegant, timeless and
Category

Vintage 1980s French Hoop Earrings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Feasterville, PA
A fabulous authentic vintage Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet studded with 68 of the finest Van
Category

Vintage 1980s French Bangles

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Coral Amethyst Gold Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Colorful elegant bracelet created by Van Cleef & Arpels in France. Stylish and wearable, it is a
Category

Vintage 1980s French More Bracelets

Materials

Coral, Amethyst, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Black Onyx Diamond Gold Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Chic and elegant ring created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1980's. It is made of 18 karats, black
Category

Vintage 1980s American Cocktail Rings

Materials

Onyx, White Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Couscous Diamond Yellow Gold Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Classy elegant feminine bracelet created by Van Cleef & Arpels in New York in the 1980s. Volume
Category

Vintage 1980s American More Bracelets

Materials

White Diamond, Yellow Gold

1980s VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Mother-of-Pearl Inlaid Yellow Gold Cufflinks
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
These handsome rectangular cufflinks by Van Cleef & Arpels are made in 18k yellow gold and feature
Category

Vintage 1980s French Cufflinks

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels Wood Gold Bangle Bracelet Ring Earrings Set
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Chic and stylish set created by Van Cleef & Arpels in France in the 1970's. It consists of a bangle
Category

Vintage 1980s French Bangles

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

1980s Van Cleef & Arpels 18K Gold 1.2ct Diamond Chalcedony Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Vilnius, Vilniaus apskr.
This is a vintage pendant with a chain designed by Van Cleef & Arpels in 1980s. It is crafted in
Category

Late 20th Century French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Chalcedony, Gold, 18k Gold

1980's Van Cleef & Arpels 11.64 Carats Diamond 18 Karat Yellow Gold Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Philadelphia, PA
backs. Tested as 18 karat gold. Numbered and fully signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY. Circa: 1980s. Measures
Category

Vintage 1980s Contemporary Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, White Diamond, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Coral and Diamond Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa: 1980s Van cleef and Arpels 18K Yellow Gold and Angel Skin Coral Ring. Diamonds total
Category

Vintage 1980s French Fashion Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond and Emerald Butterfly Pendant Necklace, 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Chicago, IL
Circa 1980s Van Cleef and Arpels Butterfly Pendant, measuring 7/8 inch in length X 5/8 inch
Category

Vintage 1980s American Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Green Chalcedony Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Green Chalcedony Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace This classic circa 1980s
Category

2010s American Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Chalcedony, Diamond, Yellow Gold

Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Braided Band Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
: VCA, 18KT, 87 & the serial number B 5568 R424 A vintage (circa 1980s) Van Cleef & Arpels 18k gold
Category

Vintage 1980s American Band Rings

Materials

Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Green Chalcedony Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Van Cleef & Arpels Diamond Green Chalcedony Yellow Gold Pendant Necklace This classic circa 1980s
Category

2010s French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Angel Skin Coral and Diamond Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Dating from the 1980s, this 18K gold Van Cleef & Arpels ring is set with angel skin coral and
Category

Vintage 1980s French Contemporary Dome Rings

Materials

Coral, Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980s Amethyst and Diamond Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in West Palm Beach, FL
A stunning pair of 1980's Vancleef & Arpels amethyst and diamond earrings are in excellent
Category

Vintage 1980s Stud Earrings

Materials

Amethyst, Diamond, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 1980s Diamond and Gold Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
earrings are designed in a knot motif. With signed Van Cleef & Arpels pouch. Circa 1980's. Signed, "Van
Category

Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

1980s Pair VAN CLEEF & ARPELS VCA Wood Gold Bangle Bracelet
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Chic and unusual pair of bangle bracelets created by Van Cleef & Arpels in France in the 1970's
Category

Vintage 1980s French Bangles

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald Diamond Yellow Gold Bangle Bracelet VCA 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Elegant and feminine bangle bracelet created by Van Cleef & Arpels in France in the 1980's
Category

Vintage 1980s American Bangles

Materials

Diamond, Emerald, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Yellow Gold Ring Earrings Set 1980s Clip-on
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Fabulous vintage set consisting of a pair of earrings and a ring created by Van Cleef & Arpels in
Category

Vintage 1980s American Clip-on Earrings

Materials

18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Necklace Bracelet Trio with Chrysophrase Diamonds, 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Lovely colorful necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1980's. Popular Clover motif, vintage
Category

Vintage 1980s French More Bracelets

Materials

Chrysophrase, Diamond, Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat Yellow Gold Fringe Necklace, circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
Vintage Van Cleef & Arpels 18 Karat Yellow Gold Fringe Necklace c.1980s For over a century, Van
Category

20th Century French Modern Multi-Strand Necklaces

Materials

Yellow Gold, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 1980s Diamond and Gold Door Knocker Ear Pendants
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A pair of French 18 karat gold, platinum and diamond earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels. The earrings
Category

Vintage 1980s French Dangle Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold, Platinum

Van Cleef and Arpels Paris 1980s Gold "Chapeau Chinois" Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A French Late-20th Century 18 karat gold ring by Van Cleef & Arpels. The polished gold ring is from
Category

Late 20th Century French Cocktail Rings

Materials

18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980s Diamond and Gold Bombé 'Coucous' Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
rope wire work. From the 'Coucous' collection. Circa 1960's. Signed, Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no
Category

Vintage 1960s Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Gold Perfume Pendant
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Litchfield, CT
Circa 1980s, 18k, Van Cleef & Arpels, France. Redolent of all that is great about eighties style
Category

Vintage 1980s French Necklace Enhancers

Materials

18k Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS PARIS 18k Yellow Gold, Diamond & Ruby Bypass Ring 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k Yellow Gold, Diamond & Ruby Bypass Ring 1980s by Andre Vassort Here
Category

Vintage 1980s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, Yellow Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Ruby & Diamond Ear Clips
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Chicago, IL
Purchased in the Mid 1980's This Fabulous pair of Van Cleef & Arpels Earclips Contain 4 Oval Rubies
Category

Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS NY 18k Yellow Gold & Diamond Band Ring Circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef & Arels 18k Yellow Gold & Diamond Band Ring Vintage Circa 1980s Here is your chance to
Category

Vintage 1980s American Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS PARIS 18k Yellow Gold & Diamond Bow Ring Vintage 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef & Arels Paris 18k Yellow Gold & Diamond Bow Ring 1980s Vintage Here is your chance to
Category

Vintage 1980s French Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Paris 18k Yellow Gold, Diamond & Sapphire Ring Circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k Yellow Gold, Sapphire & Diamond Ring Vintage Circa 1980s Here is
Category

Vintage 1980s French Fashion Rings

Materials

Diamond, Sapphire, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980s Moonstone 18 Karat Yellow Gold Braided Vintage Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Grooved with high polish finish Stamped for 18 karat gold Numbered and signed for Van Cleef & Arpels
Category

Vintage 1980s Engagement Rings

Materials

Moonstone, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels 1980s Moonstone 18 Karat Yellow Gold Braided Vintage Ring
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Philadelphia, PA
Grooved with high polish finish Stamped for 18 karat gold Numbered and signed for Van Cleef & Arpels
Category

Vintage 1980s Engagement Rings

Materials

Moonstone, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

VCA Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Onyx Diamond Necklace Yellow Gold, French, 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Lisbon, PT
VCA Van Cleef & Arpels Vintage Onyx and Diamond Necklace in 18 Karat Yellow Gold, France, 1980s
Category

Antique 1880s French Modern Pendant Necklaces

Materials

Diamond, Onyx, Gold, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Emerald Diamond Gold Earrings
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in New York, NY
A pair of French 18 karat gold earrings with emeralds and diamonds by Van Cleef & Arpels. The
Category

Vintage 1980s French Clip-on Earrings

Materials

Emerald, White Diamond, 18k Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18K Yellow Gold & Diamond Bombe Ring Vintage C. 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in Beverly Hills, CA
Van Cleef & Arpels Paris 18k Yellow Gold & Diamond Bombe Ring Vintage Circa 1980s Here is your
Category

Vintage 1980s French Cocktail Rings

Materials

Diamond, Yellow Gold

Van Cleef & Arpels Stylish 18ct Gold and White Enamel Bombe Ring Circa 1980s
By Van Cleef & Arpels
Located in London, GB
A stylish gold and enamel ring by Van Cleef & Arpels c.1980s, the bombe shape ring decorated to the
Category

Vintage 1980s French Dome Rings

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1980s Van Cleef For Sale on 1stDibs

On 1stDibs, you can find the most appropriate 1980s van cleef for your needs in our varied inventory. Every item for sale was constructed with extraordinary care, often using Gold, 18k Gold and Yellow Gold. Making the right choice when shopping for a 1980s van cleef may mean carefully reviewing examples of this item dating from different eras — you can find an early iteration of this piece from the 19th Century and a newer version made as recently as the 20th Century, both of which have proven very popular over the years. For this particular piece, 1.5 Carat and 2 Carat are consistently popular carat weights. While most can agree that any 1980s van cleef from our collection can easily elevate most outfits, but the choice of a Diamond version from the 400 available is guaranteed to add a special touch to your ensemble. A round cut version of this piece has appeal, but there are also brilliant cut and emerald cut versions for sale. Most of our 1980s van cleef for sale are for women, but there are 164 pieces available to browse for men.

How Much is a 1980s Van Cleef?

The price for a 1980s van cleef starts at $762 and tops out at $750,000 with these rings, on average, selling for $12,141.

Van Cleef & Arpels for sale on 1stDibs

One of the world’s foremost jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is particularly noted for a focus on technical virtuosity, craftsmanship and artistry, evident since its beginning. Rather than create earrings, bracelets, necklaces and other adornments primarily for the aim of displaying of wealth and opulence, Van Cleef & Arpels sought to produce jewelry that projected the wearer’s taste and style.

The company was formed a year after the 1895 marriage of Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a gem cutter, to Estelle Arpels, daughter of precious-stones dealer Salomon Arpels. Ten years later, Van Cleef & Arpels opened its first boutique on the Place Vendôme in Paris, setting the march on a square now crowded with dealers in bijouterie. (The company still occupies the New York flagship store opened in 1939 at Fifth Avenue and 57th Street.)

Born from a union of expertise in both jewelry making and gem selection, Van Cleef & Arpels distinguished itself with both the consistency of the color and clarity of its stones and the creativity of its designs. In doing so, the house would win a roster of dedicated, fashion-conscious clients that included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Barbara Hutton, Jacqueline Onassis and Elizabeth Taylor. In 1933, Van Cleef & Arpels patented its trademark Mystery Setting — a technique by which gems are fitted into an intricate matrix of slots and “drawers” that keep the setting hidden. Another signal innovation was the Zip necklace, introduced in 1951, which can be worn either around the neck or, with the zipper closed, as a bracelet.

But as much as to the firm’s craftsmanship, clients have been drawn by the insouciance and playfulness of Van Cleef & Arpels designers, as well as their attunement to the cultural climate. After the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922, the company produced several lavish pieces featuring hieroglyphics and other Egyptian motifs to go along with the geometric Art Deco jewelry of that decade and the next. Following World War II, as symbols of freedom and rebirth, the firm focused on naturalistic forms such as birds, flowers, fruit and flying insects. High society’s 1960s fascination with the Near East and India prompted such pieces as the best-selling Alhambra necklace, popularized by Princess Grace.

Lately, attention among collectors and connoisseurs has centered on Van Cleef & Arpels’s quality of workmanship as much as its glamour. The firm was the subject of a 2012 show at the Cooper-Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, as well as exhibitions at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California, in 2013 and at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris in 2014.

Find an exquisite collection of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.

Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship

Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself. 

Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.

Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.

For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.

Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.

In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so. 

Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.

Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle. 

BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.

A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in

Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.

Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.

Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.

Questions About Van Cleef & Arpels
  • 1stDibs ExpertFebruary 22, 2021
    Van Cleef & Arpels is so expensive because it is a well-known company that has a fantastic reputation. Van Cleef & Arpels are universally renowned for high quality jewelry with a focus on detail. High-profile fans of the French jewelry house over the years have included the Duchess of Windsor, Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor and many more. Find an extraordinary range of Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry on 1stDibs.