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Why Gold Shines in Jewelry Craftsmanship
Gold is the feel-good metal, the serotonin of jewelry. Wear vintage and antique gold necklaces, watches, gold bracelets or gold rings and you feel happy, you feel dressed, you feel, well, yourself.
Gold, especially yellow gold, with its rich patina and ancient pedigree going back thousands of years, is the steady standby, the well-mannered metal of choice. Any discussion of this lustrous metal comes down to a basic truth: Gold is elementary, my dear. Gold jewelry that couples the mystique of the metal with superb design and craftsmanship achieves the status of an enduring classic. Many luxury houses have given us some of our most treasured and lasting examples of gold jewelry over the years.
Since its founding, in 1837, Tiffany & Co. has built its reputation on its company jewelry as well as its coterie of boutique designers, which has included Jean Schlumberger, Donald Claflin, Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti. There are numerous gold Tiffany classics worth citing. Some are accented with gemstones, but all stand out for their design and the workmanship displayed.
For the woman who prefers a minimalist look, the Tiffany & Co. twist bangle (thin, slightly ovoid) is stylishly simple. For Cummings devotees, signature pieces feature hard stone inlay, such as her pairs of gold ear clips inlaid with black jade (a play on the classic Chanel black and tan), or bangles whose design recalls ocean waves, with undulating lines of lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. And just about any design by the great Jean Schlumberger is by definition a classic.
Even had he eschewed stones and diamonds, Southern-born David Webb would be hailed for the vast arsenal of heavy gold jewelry he designed. Gold, usually hammered or textured in some manner, defines great David Webb jewelry. The self-taught jeweler made very au courant pieces while drawing inspiration from ancient and out-of-the-way sources — East meets West in the commanding gold necklaces made by Webb in the early 1970s. The same could be said for his endlessly varied gold cuffs.
In Europe, many houses have given us gold jewelry that sets the highest standard for excellence, pieces that were highly sought after when they were made and continue to be so.
Numerous designs from Cartier are homages to gold. There are the classic Trinity rings, necklaces and bracelets — trifectas of yellow, white and rose gold. As a testament to the power of love, consider the endurance of the Cartier Love bracelet.
Aldo Cipullo, Cartier’s top in-house designer from the late 1960s into the early ’70s, made history in 1969 with the Love bracelet. Cipullo frequently said that the Love bracelet was born of a sleepless night contemplating a love affair gone wrong and his realization that “the only remnants he possessed of the romance were memories.” He distilled the urge to keep a loved one close into a slim 18-karat gold bangle.
BVLGARI and its coin jewelry, gemme nummarie, hit the jackpot when the line launched in the 1960s. The line has been perennially popular. BVLGARI coin jewelry features ancient Greek and Roman coins embedded in striking gold mounts, usually hung on thick link necklaces of varying lengths. In the 1970s, BVLGARI introduced the Tubogas line, most often made in yellow gold. The Tubogas watches are classics, and then there is the Serpenti, the house's outstanding snake-themed watches and bracelets.
A collection called Monete that incorporated the gold coins is one of several iconic BVLGARI lines that debuted in the 1970s and ’80s, catering to a new generation of empowered women. Just as designers like Halston and Yves Saint Laurent were popularizing fuss-free ready-to-wear fashion for women on the go, BVLGARI offered jewels to be lived in.
Since Van Cleef & Arpels opened its Place Vendôme doors in 1906, collection after collection of jewelry classics have enchanted the public. As predominantly expressed in a honeycomb of gold, there is the Ludo watch and accessories, circa the 1920s, and the golden Zip necklace, 1951, whose ingenious transformation of the traditional zipper was originally proposed by the Duchess of Windsor. Van Cleef's Alhambra, with its Moroccan motif, was introduced in 1968 and from the start its popularity pivoted on royalty and celebrity status. It remains one of VCA’s most popular and collected styles.
Mention must be made of Buccellati, whose name is synonymous with gold so finely spun that it suggests tapestry. The house’s many gold bracelets, typically embellished with a few or many diamonds, signified taste and distinction and are always in favor on the secondary market. Other important mid-20th-century houses known for their gold-themed jewelry include Hermès and Ilias Lalaounis.
Find a stunning collection of vintage and antique gold jewelry on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 12, 2024Bold, head-turning looks were in fashion during the 1980s. It was the decade of bright electric neon colors as well as suits, jackets, tops and dresses with shoulder pads. The aerobics and fitness craze of the ’80s spilled over into fashion, with people sporting leg warmers, headbands and leggings as everyday apparel. Punk culture also influenced style, with leather jackets, fishnet stockings and chunky metal jewelry being favored by some. Denim looks of the time were often baggy and flaunted acid washes. On 1stDibs, shop a variety of vintage apparel and accessories from the 1980s.
- Was plaid popular in the 1980s?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2024Yes, plaid was popular in the 1980s. Interestingly, it was a signature feature of two very different styles that trended during the decade. Plaid appeared on pleated skirts and blazers, common among the preppy set. In addition, many in the punk subculture sported plaid pants and dresses. Find a wide variety of 1980s apparel and accessories on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022Yes, although Versace remains one of the top fashion houses of today, the 1980s are considered the heyday of Versace. Campaigns included top supermodels of the time, including Kate Moss and Claudia Schiffer, and were shot by the top photographers Richard Avedon and Bruce Weber. Shop iconic vintage and contemporary Versace apparel and accessories from some of the world’s top boutiques on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertJune 15, 2023One of the most popular types of dresses during the 1980s was a tight-fitting sheath with oversized shoulder pads. Peplum accents were also common as were large puffy sleeves. On 1stDibs, find a collection of 1980s vintage dresses on 1stDibs.
- What is a 925s ring?1 Answer1stDibs ExpertApril 5, 2022A 925s ring is a piece of jewelry worn on a finger made of a specific type of precious metal. Specifically, 925s indicated 925 sterling silver. This metal is 92.5 percent pure silver, and the remaining 7.5 percent is another metal like copper. Shop a wide range of sterling silver rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertDecember 4, 2023Yes, they did have wedding rings during the 1600s. However, exchanging rings during weddings was not common in all cultures. In Europe, many couples presented each other with rings to symbolize their marriage vows. The wedding ring tradition actually dates back thousands of years to ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome. Explore a wide variety of wedding rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023In the 1920s, engagement rings still looked like rings but were representative of a diverse range of styles and influences. Art Deco diamond ring designs took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement as well as from ancient Egypt – a revival sparked by the opening of King Tut’s tomb in 1922. Native American, African and Asian motifs also inspired jewelry pieces. Diamonds in square and rectangular shapes incorporating angular steps – like emerald cuts, Asscher cuts and baguettes – were set against black onyx, rubies, sapphires and emeralds to create color-blocking effects. Platinum, 18-karat gold, 14-karat white gold and sterling silver were some of the favored metals of the decade. Find a wide range of Art Deco engagement rings on 1stDibs.
- 1stDibs ExpertDecember 4, 2023What wedding rings looked like in the 1800s was similar to other Victorian jewelry. The Victorian era spanned from 1837 to 1901, coinciding with the reign of Queen Victoria in the United Kingdom. At the beginning of this period, rings were made of gold and affordable only to the wealthy. Designs for Victorian-era rings often featured repoussé work and chasing, in which patterns are hammered into the metal. Some featured stones secured by collets, settings similar to bezels, with prongs and a closed back. On 1stDibs, find a selection of Victorian wedding rings.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023In the early 1900s, engagement rings often looked like other jewelry from the Edwardian era, which coincided with the reign of King Edward VII in the United Kingdom from 1901 to 1910. Cutters used new diamond saws and jewelry lathes to refine the old European cut. The resulting stones, designed to sparkle in the light from candles and gas lamps, are beloved by connoisseurs for their inner fire and romantic glow. The invention of the oxyacetylene torch enabled jewelers to use platinum, which had previously been too challenging to work with. This technological advancement made it possible for Edwardian rings to show off lacy filigree and milgrain work. Nature also influenced jewelry in the early 1900s. Flowing and floral garland motifs were so popular that the Edwardian age is sometimes called the "garland era." Find a selection of Edwardian engagement rings on 1stDibs.