1920s Ruby Cocktail Ring
Early 20th Century European Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Early 20th Century Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Early 20th Century French Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold
Vintage 1920s Unknown Cocktail Rings
Ruby, Diamond, Platinum, Yellow Gold, 15k Gold, Gold
Vintage 1920s German Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Ruby, Diamond, Silver, 18k Gold, Gold
20th Century Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s Hungarian Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 14k Gold, Silver
Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Deco Cluster Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Early 20th Century English Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Emerald, Ruby, Gold, 18k Gold
Vintage 1920s Unknown Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Aquamarine, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Platinum
Early 20th Century European Cocktail Rings
Aquamarine, Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Rose Gold
Vintage 1920s French Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
Vintage 1920s Unknown Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s French Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, White Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s Unknown Three-Stone Rings
Diamond, Ruby, 18k Gold, Yellow Gold
Vintage 1920s Art Deco Cocktail Rings
Diamond, Ruby, Platinum
1920s Ruby Cocktail Ring For Sale on 1stDibs
How Much is a 1920s Ruby Cocktail Ring?
The Legacy of Ruby in Jewelry Design
This deep red gem is the color of heat and passion — vintage and antique ruby jewelry is perfect for those born in the middle of summer.
Rubies are one of the few gemstones that can give diamonds a run for their money. Just consider the Van Cleef & Arpels “scarf” necklace the Duke of Windsor presented to the Duchess on her 40th birthday, in 1936 — set with diamonds and dripping with rubies, a testament to the deep-red gemstone’s power — or the slippers encrusted with 4,600 rubies that Harry Winston made to commemorate The Wizard of Oz’s golden anniversary. July babies have permission to adorn themselves with this beautiful red stone even when it’s not their birthday.
Rubies are considered precious stones — along with diamonds, sapphires and emeralds — and have a hardness of 9.0 on the Mohs Scale, surpassed only by Moissanite and diamonds. They are composed of corundum, a colorless mineral that is also the basic material of sapphires. In the July birthstone, the red of the gemstone — and the various hues seen in sapphires — are produced by the presence of trace elements. In the case of a ruby, this element is chromium. Rubies range in color from vermilion to a violet red. They are also pleochroic, which means that a stone’s hue can vary depending on the direction of viewing. The most sought-after color is pigeon’s blood: pure red with a hint of blue.
Rubies that are hosted in dolomite marble are the most prized: Because the marble is low in iron, so are the rubies, resulting in a more intense color. Rubies found in basalt, which has a higher iron content, are generally darker and less intense.
When shopping for antique and vintage ruby jewelry, remember that the 4Cs of selecting the perfect diamond — color, clarity, cut and carat — also apply to rubies.
According to the Gemological Institute of America, the color of the July birthstone should be a vibrant to slightly purplish red, and the stone should be clear and inclusion-free. Accordingly, the cut should show off its color and clarity. As for the last criterion, fine rubies more than a carat in weight are rare. Often, large rubies are more expensive than diamonds of comparable weights.
Find a collection of ruby necklaces, ruby rings and other accessories on 1stDibs.
Finding the Right Cocktail-rings for You
A flashy symbol of wealth during the early 20th century, antique and vintage cocktail rings have gained broader appeal in the decades since for the hefty dose of glamour they bring to any ensemble.
Cocktail rings earned their name for their frequent appearances during glitzy cocktail parties at the height of the Prohibition era. Back then, these accessories were seen not only as statement pieces but as statements in and of themselves. They openly represented a sense of freedom and independence as well as a demonstration of opulence. After all, the 1920s heralded the Harlem Renaissance and Art Deco design, and a slew of social and cultural shifts meant that women in particular were breaking from pre–World War I conventions and embracing newfound freedoms to express themselves as individuals.
Women expressly wore cocktail rings on the fingers of their right hand versus the left, which was “reserved” for an engagement ring or wedding band, accessories definitely paid for by a suitor. And for cocktail rings, the bigger the colored gem at the center — which is usually mounted in a high setting — and the more elaborate the design, the stronger the likelihood of being noticed.
Cocktail rings remained a popular piece of jewelry for women until the 1930s, when the Great Depression and the onset of war marked a change in behaviors nationwide. While the 1960s and ’70s saw a return in visibility for the accessory, it wasn’t until the 1980s that cocktail rings once again assumed their position as a beacon of luxury and glitz.
During the 20th century, the range of dazzling cocktail rings seems to have been limitless, from glimmering gold rings set with carved jade diamonds designed by David Webb to Pomellato’s pink quartz confections to striking Gucci butterfly rings with accent diamonds set in a pavé fashion.
So, how do you wear a cocktail ring? Cocktail rings “can be worn for almost anything — dinners, date nights, parties, special events, on the red carpet,” explains David Joseph of New York-based jewelry brand Bochic.
Can you wear cocktail rings with other rings? “In my opinion, cocktail rings should stand on their own since they showcase a large gem in the center,” says Joseph.
These glamorous jewels can be worn inside or outside crowded taverns, in either daytime or nighttime with casual or dressy attire. On 1stDibs, find a wide variety of antique and vintage cocktail rings, including those offered by Chanel, whose elegant cocktail rings often feature pearls and, of course, diamonds, and sometimes were styled after showy flowers like the camellia, and Van Cleef & Arpels, whose detailed and intricate designs are viewed as miniature pieces of wearable art.
- 1stDibs ExpertNovember 21, 2023In the 1920s, engagement rings still looked like rings but were representative of a diverse range of styles and influences. Art Deco diamond ring designs took inspiration from the contemporary Cubist movement as well as from ancient Egypt – a revival sparked by the opening of King Tut’s tomb in 1922. Native American, African and Asian motifs also inspired jewelry pieces. Diamonds in square and rectangular shapes incorporating angular steps – like emerald cuts, Asscher cuts and baguettes – were set against black onyx, rubies, sapphires and emeralds to create color-blocking effects. Platinum, 18-karat gold, 14-karat white gold and sterling silver were some of the favored metals of the decade. Find a wide range of Art Deco engagement rings on 1stDibs.
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