When it comes to jewelry, certain designs never lose their luster. Whether they were created in the past century or the past year, these pieces were so ingeniously conceived and carefully crafted that their appeal endures.
We asked jewelry historian Vanessa Cron (of the must-follow Instagram account @jewelsandthegang) to highlight a handful of such standout items on 1stDibs. With more than two decades of experience working at auction houses, teaching jewelry history and curating exhibitions around the world, Cron knows what she’s talking about. Read on for her picks, starting with the pair of 1980s JAR lavender-jade and chrysoprase earrings pictured above.
“He is the most discreet of jewelers, and many legends have been told about him already,” Cron says of the founder of internationally acclaimed contemporary jewelry brand JAR. “But what stands out about Joel Arthur Rosenthal’s creations is his unique sense of volumes and colors. Few have achieved such harmony, and even fewer can boast of having had such a major influence on jewelry design for more than 40 years. This pair of ear clips is yet another demonstration of the ‘JAR spirit.’ A unique piece of jewelry that is instantly recognizable. A true artist’s jewel.”
Zaha Hadid for Georg Jensen Sterling-Silver Lamellae Cuff, 2016
“The paths leading to jewelry design are many and often unexpected. The house of Georg Jensen knows this better than most, having always collaborated with artists of diverse talents. Inviting a renowned architect to work on a jewelry collection proved to be highly effective: The collection created by Zaha Hadid for Georg Jensen in 2016 is strikingly avant-garde. There is no doubt that these limited-edition pieces, especially this bracelet, will leave a lasting mark on their era and will be highly coveted by jewelry collectors in the near future.”
Bulgari Monete Ring, ca. 1980
“The Monete is undeniably one of Bulgari’s most iconic collections. It reflects the house’s deep connection to the past as well as its vision for modern jewelry by incorporating ancient silver coins into contemporary yellow-gold jewels like this ring. Setting a ‘piece of history’ into jewelry rather than a traditional precious stone has made this collection a timeless classic, adaptable to all styles and trends for decades.”
Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. Mesh Scarf Necklace, 2010s
“Did you think a silk scarf was the epitome of chic? Let me introduce you to the gold scarf. An actual scarf made entirely of gold. A proper scarf, designed by the great Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co., which you can tie in countless ways. Will it keep you warm in winter? Maybe not, but its incredible flexibility makes it a unique piece that will complement any wardrobe. A technical marvel paired with a design of great purity: the perfect recipe for an exceptional piece of jewelry.”
Gold, Turquoise and Pearl Bangle, 1880s
“It is sometimes difficult to analyze what makes a good jewelry design. More often than not, only the passage of time can distinguish enduring pieces from passing trends. So, when a piece like this gold, pearl and turquoise bracelet from the Victorian era still appears so desirable in 2024, there’s no need to question it. Remaining attractive, modern and relevant to today’s fashion is proof of a great creation. Good design, expert craftsmanship, true goldsmith work and a color combination that works beautifully. Who needs a recognized signature when all these elements come together? There you have it: the jewel you want to wear today, tomorrow and all the days after.”
