Jewelry and Watches

She Knows Tourbillons

Maria Doulton’s website, The Jewellery Editor, covers everything from news about auctions, exhibitions and fairs to celebrity and bridal trends. Top: Doulton wears a necklace designed by Jade Jagger, whom she recently interviewed for her site.

It may seem clichéd to describe the London-based jewelry and watch editor Maria Doulton as having a twinkle in her eye since she does spend her days examining items that glint and glitter. But it can’t be denied that her large green eyes light up whenever she’s discussing the rare world of tourmalines and tourbillons, singing the praises of a newly discovered designer or explaining the delights of attending the grand Parisian collector’s show the Biennale des Antiquaires.

As with many people who are passionate about their work, Doulton exudes infectious enthusiasm. Her knowledge of her subject is impressive, just stopping short of becoming intimidating. You could say that Doulton is the best sort of teacher, sharing her expertise on her authoritative website, The Jewellery Editor, with unassuming delight.

Where does your interest in jewelry stem from?

My mother always loved collecting things. I remember in places like Costa Rica she would take us with her to track down this one particular glassblower, or we’d go to these remote villages to find the one weaver who wove in a certain way. She loved antiques, boring us to tears. But she generated an interest in me to appreciate how things are made, as well as what is well made — and what’s not. She taught us not to have anything in our lives that was disposable because we had to move around so much, and so everything had to last.

What are the merits of collecting vintage jewelry?

The variety of vintage styles out there is so impressive that you really can find a one-of-a-kind piece that no one else will be wearing — and every piece has a story to tell.

Doulton covering the 2014 Cannes Film Festival

What was your first piece of jewelry?

I think it was a Mickey Mouse watch from my father when I was about six. The hands came off in the cinema one day in Montevideo, a very sad moment. My mother and father gave me a diamond ring for my 18th birthday, but I preferred taking jewels apart and having them remade. So when I travel, I try to buy stones. I came back from Cape Town with blue topazes that became a ring, then a clip for a necklace.

What are the jewelry trends that have longevity and that collectors should keep in mind?

An interest in more unusually colored stones is definitely a trend — rare stones or even stones that before wouldn’t have been considered for fine jewelry: There are a lot more opals now; a really good amethyst could be the centerpiece of a fine piece of jewelry; rutilated quartz, too, or a tourmaline. It’s an example of people accepting new conventions and values of beauty.


“So many people love jewelry, but there’s actually not that much information out there.”


Do you have any rules for wearing jewelry?

First of all, don’t be frightened of it. Be as original as you are with your clothes. All too often I see a beautifully dressed woman wearing the absolute cookie-cutter jewelry piece and watch, and I think, “No!” There are so many much more exciting things out there: You could choose something that you really love, and, if it’s different, people will ask you about it, and you will always stand out. You’ll never look like everyone else. I also think you should wear one big piece and not too many things at once.

Relaxing in St. Barths (photo by Scully Foto)

Relaxing in St. Barths (photo by Scully Foto)

Wedding season is upon us: Can you select a few favorite engagement rings on 1stdibs?

These are some vintage engagement rings that are just charming and would make any proposal so special. Then again, I also found four contemporary engagement rings that are much more exciting than the standard diamond solitaire. There are few places where you can find such a good selection of both vintage and new engagement rings, and that really helps you to understand what style of ring you are after.

What else on 1stdibs has particularly caught your eye lately?

There are some gorgeous Belperron pieces. I love the boldness of Belperron and her vision for jewelry, which was well beyond what was happening around her at the time. I like the Chevalier ring with a pearl daringly set in a quartz dome — futuristic and ahead of its time.

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is timeless, too. Every micron of the design is perfect and has endured for decades. I think that’s because the watch was built for purpose, and the purity of this intent is evident in its clean and functional lines, yet it’s still handsome and elegant. I am wearing mine on a lilac crocodile strap at the moment, and I have had fuchsia, apple-green and baby-blue straps in the past. They all look great against the timeless face of the Reverso.

What I like is when I see something that is original, something that’s made with artistry. When you can see the finely tailored details. Regardless of the style, that’s what makes something beautiful.

See more of Maria’s Picks on 1stdibs  |  Visit The Jewellery Editor

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