Finders Keepers / Sandy Schreier
by Cator Sparks
 
 
Most collectors acquire a passion for their object of desire as they mature. They may discover a piece on a trip, be inspired by another collection, or get enthused about something through education. It is rare that a collection simply falls into one’s lap – or on one’s back, as the case with Sandy Schreier. But beginning at the ripe old age of five, Schreier had the crème de la crème of couture filling her closet – and soon her parents’ attic. Today with 15,000 articles of clothing, accessories,  sketches, swatches, and fashion photography, she owns the world’s largest private collection of French couture, American fashion, and Hollywood costumes and has had pieces exhibited everywhere from the Met in New York City to the Hermitage in Saint Petersburg to the Louvre in Paris.
 
Schreier’s father was from New York but moved to Detroit when the department store for whom he worked, Russeks, opened a branch in the Michigan city. The elegant store catered to the well-heeled-set carrying high-end ready-to-wear, French couture, real and costume jewels, wedding gowns, millinery, and furs. Sandy’s father was the furrier at Russeks, owned by David Nemerov (father of Diane Arbus), and would often bring Sandy to work on Saturdays where she would always be found playing dress-up or looking at the latest copies of Vogue (ITALICS) and Harper’s Bazaar. (ITALICS)  Many of Detroit’s socialites took a keen interest in Sandy and began bringing her gifts of their old couture. As Sandy explains, “The cachet of wearing vintage clothes was not yet born and passing down unwanted couture to younger family members was no longer the vogue as it had been at the turn of the 20th century.” Alas, the young Sandy was obtaining the best clothes money could buy just by being her charming self. Her resemblance to Shirley Temple didn’t hurt either.
 
These weren’t just any society matrons but some of the most important of their time. Detroit being the capital of the automotive industry, Sandy was receiving gowns from the likes of the Dodges, Chryslers, and Fords.  She ended up with much of the Dodge couture as well as beautiful Chanels and Callot Soeurs belonging to the late Countess Tolstoy (sister-in-law of the famous Russian author). The young Sandy wasn’t exactly sure what to do with such pieces but she knew they were special. “My parents always tried to get me to wear one of them for Halloween and I put my foot down!”
 
As the collection grew she began to run out of closet space so she began storing the pieces in her parents’ attic. She is still amazed that nothing was thrown out. Schreier recollects that, “My parents were aghast with my new hobby and feared that having strangers’ old clothes in our home would spread germs – causing a fatal disease.” To date, there have been no reports of deaths caused by “old clothes sickness.” 
 
Today she is a must-see on any designers grand tour of couture. Michael Kors, Isaac Mizrahi, Zandra Rhodes, and the late Bill Blass spent many hours gasping at the rare pieces in Sandy’s collection.  Film and music stars as well as costume designers also call with requests to see some fabulous pieces of fashion’s past.
 
Schreier has made her collection her full time job, but it wasn’t until the mid-eighties that she started touring as much as her couture did. She explains that in the beginning she was “…basically doing speaking engagements for blue hairs about the history of fashion, but all of that changed the second I started appearing on TV, talking about film costuming.” Middle America had no idea who Karl Lagerfeld was, but they certainly recognized Nicole Kidman, so when the Australian star stepped out in Chanel, America took notice. Sandy began speaking about fashion in reference to Hollywood and that is when her career blasted off. She was cross-referencing Hollywood and fashion long before Vogue (ITALICS) was using stars on the cover to boost sales.
 
How did TV come about? She was simply in the right place at the right time. She began to speak about film fashion and the station sent her to Hollywood to learn directly from the greats:  Edith Head, Jean Louis, Helen Rose, and Dorothy Jeakins just to name a few.  Her interviews were seen originally in the Midwest and then on AMC, where she was introduced by Nick Clooney, George Clooney’s dad. The designers often took her to the homes of their clientele.  Jean Louis not only introduced her to his future wife, Loretta Young, whom he dressed for TV, but also to Lana Turner who still had Jean Louis’ “Imitation of Life” chiffon dresses in her personal closet.  To date, Sandy has appeared on Oprah, CNN, BBC, and AMC discussing film fashion.
 
And if that isn’t enough, Mrs. Schreier is the author of Hollywood Dressed & Undressed(ITALICS) (Rizzoli, 1998) and Hollywood Gets Married (ITALICS) (Clarkson Potter, 2002).  She is presently working on two books: Hollywood’s Having a Baby (ITALICS) and Desperately Seeking Fashion. (ITALICS)

A conversation with Sandy Schreier~ 
 
1. What do your friends and family think of your collection?
 
When my husband and I were married, we were just teenagers; he assumed it was just something he was going to have to put up with (both me and the collection)! But it wasn’t until museums started borrowing pieces in the 70’s that he realized that I was on to something. All our kids followed in his footsteps, becoming lawyers with an MBA thrown into the mix.  They grew up, at times unhappily due to having to deal with designers, artists, and movie stars popping in and out of the house and taking up their mother’s time. My friends often laughed at me because I would interrupt their calls saying, “Oh, I must hang-up now; Mr. Saint Laurent’s office is calling” or “Bette Midler is on the other line”.    
 
 
2. Name your three most favored pieces?
 
That is like asking me which of my four kids is my favorite!
Some pieces have great sentimental value, like Mrs. Dodge’s Poiret.
Collectors usually say, “The one I like the best is the one that got away.” Well mine are the ones that I left behind, such as the pieces I’ve left because the couture was no longer pristine, with a missing button or belt.  Every single piece I own is in perfect or nearly perfect condition.  By doing so, I left behind many of fashions “most fabulous,” but who knew?!
 
3. Have you ever lost a precious piece?
 
No and I’m knocking on wood as we speak!
When I loan to museums, I always ask for facility reports, making sure the borrowing institutions have the highest standards, a guarantee that my babies will return home safely and in perfect condition.
 
4. If in a fire, what would you grab?
 
I would save my husband; he’s the best piece of my collection.
 
5. What piece gets the most attention/ is liked the most?
 
When a designer comes to see me, I show them what they’ve requested, but also something they didn’t ask for and it always peaks their interest.  I love to entertain and educate not only my audiences, but also designers, who may be so busy with their businesses they haven’t had time to learn about fashion’s illustrious past.  These visits are always a treat for me as well, because I get to see pieces of my collection that have been out of sight for many years. . .it’s like getting to visit with old friends once again.
But as for the ones that always get the “ooohs” and “ahhhs?” My beaded flapper dresses by far.  The Whitney used one that resembles the Chrysler building in their exhibition, NEW YORK, NEW YORK and it got rave reviews.  And, in an article about me in People Magazine,(ITALICS) the Adrians, Cardins, Saint Laurents, etc. were overlooked, but not the beaded and fringed flapper dress.
 
6. Do you ever wear parts of your collection?
 
No. As I always say, “If I owned a Picasso, it wouldn’t be on my back.”
 
7. How can we see your collection?
 
I have pieces in the “Valentina” exhibit at the Museum of the City of New York until May 17th. People can also see pieces at the upcoming exhibit in the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute, “The Model as Muse,” opening May 4th. My rare Hollywood costumes will be shown in an exhibition at the Oklahoma Museum of Art next spring.  I am in talks with the Met as well as with London’s Victoria & Albert Museum regarding exhibitions of my collection and I’m hoping that published book on my collection will happen in my lifetime.  And my next speaking engagement is at The Kentucky Derby Museum!
 
 
 8.What is your weakness?
 
I have always wanted three things: a Rudy Gernreich “topless” swimsuit, a Paul Poiret “lampshade” dress and a pair of Roger Vivier “comma-heel” shoes. If I keep saying it, especially in national magazines, I think it will happen!  The bathing suit came my way when a man read an article about me in Architectural Digest (ITALICS) – and he just happened to have one!  It’s now mine. (Note to anyone out there with that Vivier shoe or the famous “lampshade” dress!)
 
9. How do you collect? Scour shops? Auctions? Word of mouth?
 
Sadly enough, most of the great couture has disappeared. But I’ve certainly gotten my fair share of offers, especially since I’ve been appearing on TV and doing speaking engagements.  Of course it is hard to compete with the Met, or with socialites who go to auctions, and dealers looking for a special event dress, and of course, with the stylists to the stars – the people who dress the celebs for the red carpet.  Their funds are unlimited!
These days there are very few shops that specialize in haute couture, but the better shops and dealers know where to find me.  And of course, online where I
found something rare (but I’m keeping that a secret)!
 
10.  To whom do you bequeath your collection?
 
When I die I am taking it all with me!  When I was in Spain I went to the mausoleum of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella and she had her entire wardrobe with her. I thought that was fabulous!

Cator Sparks202 West 122 StreetNew York, NY 10027212-365-0900http://www.catorsparks.comhttp://www.catorsparks.blogspot.com